Get ready to be blown away by the Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept, a timepiece that defies convention and pushes the boundaries of what a watch can be. But here’s where it gets controversial: is this a watch or a masterpiece of engineering disguised as one? Since their first collaboration in 2013 with the Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph, followed by the 2019 Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato 100th Anniversary Edition, Chopard and Zagato—two iconic family-run brands—have seamlessly blended watchmaking with automotive culture. With the Zagato Lab One Concept, they’ve taken this partnership to a whole new level, creating a concept watch that prioritizes structure, lightness, and engineering over traditional design norms. And this is the part most people miss: it’s not just a watch; it’s a technical exploration inspired by motorsport principles, much like a concept car testing the limits of possibility.
Developed through a close collaboration between Chopard’s Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, their design and movement teams, and Zagato’s Andrea Michele Zagato alongside chief designer Norihiko Harada, this watch is a testament to innovation. Its 42mm case is a marvel of tubular architecture, reminiscent of a racing-car chassis. This design distributes mechanical stress through a rigid yet lightweight framework, ensuring durability without the weight. Crafted from ceramicised titanium, the case weighs a mere 43.2 grams, including the strap, while achieving a hardness of around 1000 Vickers—ceramic-like scratch resistance with titanium’s low density. Instead of traditional lugs, self-locking tubular loops pivot up to 45 degrees, allowing the watch to conform naturally to the wrist. A box-shaped sapphire crystal, flush with the caseband, completes the futuristic, concept-car aesthetic.
The dial is where the magic truly happens. Fully integrated into the movement, the ceramicised titanium mainplate doubles as the display surface, adorned with Zagato’s signature “Z” machined in relief and finished with rhodium-plated chamfers. Openworked hands, inspired by steering wheels, reinforce the motorsport theme, while a fuel gauge-style power reserve at 12 o’clock adds a functional yet playful touch.
At the heart of this watch is the hand-wound L.U.C 04.04-L calibre, an evolution of Chopard’s Engine One concept from 2010. Executed entirely in ceramicised titanium, including bridges and mainplate, this movement strikes a perfect balance between lightness and precision. A 60-second tourbillon at 6 o’clock features an aluminium carriage to reduce mass, while silent-block elastomer dampers and four lever arms ensure shock protection. Running at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it boasts a 60-hour power reserve and COSC chronometer certification.
The Zagato Lab One Concept comes with two straps: a technical fabric option with hook-and-loop fastening for a sporty look, and a calfskin leather strap with a ceramicised titanium pin buckle for a more classic appeal. Limited to just 19 pieces in ceramicised titanium, this watch is available exclusively through Chopard for CHF 130,000. For more details, visit chopard.com.
Technical Specifications – Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept
- Case: 42mm diameter x 11.15mm thickness – bead-blasted ceramicised titanium – tubular construction with pivoting self-locking lugs – box-shaped sapphire crystal with AR coating front and back – ceramicised titanium crown with engraved steering wheel motif – 50m water resistance.
- Dial: Ceramicised titanium mainplate with Zagato “Z” motifs in relief – rhodium-plated Chopard and Zagato logos – openworked rhodium-plated hour and minute hands – small seconds and tourbillon at 6 o’clock – fuel gauge-style power reserve at 12 o’clock.
- Movement: L.U.C calibre 04.04-L – hand-wound, in-house – 207 components, 29 jewels – ceramicised titanium bridges and mainplate – 60-second tourbillon with aluminium carriage – Variner balance, Phillips terminal curve hairspring – 28,800vph – 60h power reserve – COSC chronometer-certified.
- Strap: Technical fabric strap with hook-and-loop fastening and ceramicised titanium loop – additional calfskin leather strap with ceramicised titanium pin buckle.
- Reference: 168636-3001
- Availability: Limited edition of 19 pieces
- Price: CHF 130,000
Now, here’s the question: Is the Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept a watch for the wrist or a piece of art for the collector? Let us know your thoughts in the comments—do you see this as the future of watchmaking, or is it a step too far into the realm of engineering over aesthetics?
